![]() ![]() Use caution when choosing rounded stone as these tend not lock together as well and can come loose. Shape: The difference between crushed, angular, or round stone definitely makes a difference on the amount of traction provided for bound gravel pathways. ![]() Size: Stone sizing should be at least 3 stone's tall to get the best adhesion.įor example if your total stone depth is 1" then it is best to use stones no greater than 1/3", if you are going to have a stone depth of 2" you can use stones up to2/3".įor ADA Wheelchair Compliance – use stones which are 1/8” up to 1/2” to create a smooth pavement for wheelchairs. Note, other types of stone may work for your application however best results tend to be found by following the guidelines below. Use the following as guidelines when selecting stone. Using the right size stones is important for the success of your project. One 5 gallon bucket of gravel can me mixed with 16 - 18 oz. GRAVEL BINDER HOW TOHere is a video explaining how to repair your installation if this has happened to you: GRAVEL BINDER PATCHIf there is a lot of foam, or if it has cured then the only fix is to remove all of the rock in that area and patch with fresh rock and Gravel-Lok. This will work only if there is a small amount of foaming and it most be done immediately. If you do find yourself in the situation with foam then you might be able to pop the bubbles using a brush or a broom. This foam cannot be easily remedied, so the best option is to avoid this situation altogether by following the mix ratio found in the installation guide. If too much is used then during the curing period a white foam will bubble up through the stones. Gravel-Lok cures and expands over the first 24 hours. This can be an issue as not using enough will prevent good adhesion between pebbles and too much product can result with poor looks and foaming. One of the most common mistakes is using more Gravel-Lok than is recommended in the installation guide. Miscalculating the right amount of product for the job I've done a couple of tests with different dilutions (is that a word?) and 50/50 with water seems to work OK.1. ![]() One idea I had was to use diluted bondcrete and just pour it over the gravel. However, it's very expensive, and we won't really be walking on it as it'll be slightly lower, or level with, the surrounding stone. I'm quite liking it so would like to continue with the whole path, but obviously over time the gravel is going to get washed away - so what's the best way to keep it in place? There are the products like and for an area of gravel that was going to be walked on I'd probably go this route. We didn't like the mortar pointing that was in them before so this time I've 'pointed' to 10mm below the level and am thinking of topping it off with gravel - here's a bit I did to see how it looks I'm relaying our sandstone path using the same stones, but pulling them up and levelling the base as they're all over the place at the moment. ![]()
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